摘要
分析了颈部对领子纸样的影响,通过实验的方法研究了面料性能与衬衫领下落量之间的关系,分析了面料的缩水率和热缩率对衬衫领尺寸的影响,找出了衬衫领纸样设计中的3个主要因素的影响规律。研究结果表明:领子纸样设计中前颈点、侧颈点以及后颈点与颈部构造有密切关系,并指出颈部倾斜形态对纸样的影响;面料的拉伸比功、拉伸功回复率、压缩功回复率、单位面积重量等4个主要性能指标对下落量有影响;在确定领子样板尺寸时必须考虑面料的缩水率和热缩率对其的影响。
The constitution of neck, which has influences on the shirt-collar pattern, was analyzed. The relationship between fabric properties and drop-size of shirt-collar was investigated, and the influences of washing shrinkage and hate shrinkage on the size of shirt-collar were also analysed. The rule of three main factors was found out. The study showd that there were affinities between the constitution of neck and FNP.SNP and BNP, and the influences of the constitution of neck on pattern was mentioned. The influences of WT, RT, RC and W on drop-size was indicated. The influences of washing shrinkage and hate shrinkage on the size of shirt-collar need to be calculated on fixing on sloper.
出处
《纺织科技进展》
CAS
2007年第5期83-86,共4页
Progress in Textile Science & Technology
关键词
衬衫领
颈部构造
面料性能
生产工艺
shirt-collar
construction of neck
fabric properties
production technology
