摘要
[研究意义]近年来皮肤风衣因其独特的功能性和美观性受到大众的追捧,成为夏季出行的必备服装。目前研究人员主要集中于皮肤风衣面料的性能研究,对产品款式、结构等方面的内容研究的不够充分。为了丰富皮肤风衣的产品类型,[研究方法和内容]文章从面料、色彩、款式造型和结构设计等方面分析了皮肤风衣的产品特点,梳理产品的设计要素,并进行产品的设计实践。基于皮肤风衣的产品设计要素,文章以女子160/84A号型为例,设计出多款皮肤风衣产品,并展望未来发展趋势,为后续产品开发提出有益建议,助推皮肤风衣市场的快速发展。
In recent years, with the prevalence of outdoor sports and the improvement of individual protection awareness,the market demand for outdoor sunscreen clothing was increasing year by year. The windbreaker was popular because of its unique functionality and aesthetics, and became a necessary clothing in summer. Since the birth of the windbreaker, researchers mainly focused on the performance of its fabrics, yet the researches on its style design and structural design were not sufficient.At present, windbreakers in the market still have a lot of problems, such as not fashionable, uncomfortable, not up to the standard of anti-ultraviolet performance, which seriously restrict the further development of windbreakers and affect consumers’ purchase desire.In order to enrich the product types of windbreakers and meet the diversified demand of consumers, the product characteristics of windbreakers were analyzed from four aspects, including fabric characteristics, color characteristics, style characteristics and structural design methods. To be specific, woven fabrics and knitted fabrics were widely used in windbreaker fabrics, with emphasis on raw materials, structural parameters, advantages and disadvantages. Moreover, the color of windbreakers was a major feature different from other clothing, which was generally high-brightness and high-purity colors, and presented translucent effect. The classification of windbreaker colors and the anti-ultraviolet performance of different colors were analyzed in color characteristics. In terms of style characteristics, the silhouette types, pocket shapes, sleeve types and finger-stall design, collar types and horsetail hole design were analyzed respectively. Afterward, the functions of three dividing lines and the opening design methods at different positions were specifically introduced in the structural design methods. Eventually, based on the characteristics of windbreakers, the product design elements were summarized and the product design practices were carried out, so that the development trends of windbreakers were prospected.Based on the product design elements of windbreakers and the 4 F principles(Fashion, Function, Feel, Fit) in fashion design. Taking female 160/84 A as an example, the anti-ultraviolet performance and wearing comfort of windbreakers were fully considered, then multiple series of windbreakers were designed according to the fashion trend. In the current research, 15 D nylon taffeta and 20 D nylon taffeta were selected for the design practices. Multiple series of windbreakers were designed through different color collocation, including pure color series, flower color series, multi-color splicing series, and printing series. At the same time, the sleeves and collars of windbreakers were diversified designed to increase the protective area of clothing or improve the ventilation effect. The Silhouettes of windbreakers were mainly H-shaped and X-shaped. Not only would the creativity of the clothing design and the rationality of the structure be considered, but also different segmentation techniques would be used to give full play to the role of the dividing lines. In addition, local details can be designed according to the style of windbreakers. For example, pockets of different shapes or materials were designed in different windbreaker positions;the warning and decorative reflective materials or fluorescent strips were applied by splicing method;in order to accelerate the heat exchange between the inside and outside of the clothing, opening design or breathable fabrics were designed in the human sweating area. Meanwhile, local details can reinforce the fashion, interest and practicality of windbreakers.With the advancement of science and technology, multi-disciplinary integration is becoming the time-trend of hot spots.The relationship between clothing and other disciplines becomes increasingly closer, which continuously broadens the design ideas of clothing. Therefore, the design innovation of future windbreaker products can be started from three aspects: firstly,multi-functional windbreaker fabrics would be developed;secondly, intelligent windbreakers would be designed;and thirdly, online personalized customization service would be carried out. Consequently, windbreakers would be designed, not only with fashionable, comfortable, technological and excellent comprehensive performance, but also can meet the human body movement function, so as to promote the development of the clothing industry towards high-end, fashionable, digital and intelligent.To sum up, the product characteristics and design elements of windbreakers were summarized, based on these, a variety of windbreaker products were designed. Eventually, the development trends of windbreakers were prospected, so as to provide beneficial suggestions for the subsequent product development, boost the rapid development of windbreaker market, and meet the needs of consumers for the comfort, fitness, aesthetics and personalization of windbreakers.
作者
杨梦艳
王旭
崔静
朱晔
魏蒙嫄
胡坤才
YANG Mengyan;WANG Xu;CUI Jing;ZHU Ye;WEI Mengyuan;HU Kuncai(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;College of Fashion,Henan University of Engineering,Zhengzhou 451191,China)
出处
《服饰导刊》
2022年第1期83-88,共6页
Fashion Guide
基金
河南省本科高校省级大学生创新创业训练计划项目(S202111517019)
河南省高等学校重点科研项目(20B540001)。
关键词
皮肤风衣
产品特点
设计要素
款式设计
windbreaker
sunscreen clothing
product characteristics
design elements
style design
