摘要
针对改革开放以来中国男式西服形制嬗变的问题,运用文献研究与图片分析的方法,得到了中国男式西服形制逐渐个性化、潮流化的结论。研究表明:①随着时代变迁,西服面料的选择从传统的机织面料到现在的针织面料,更注重面料的环保性;②西服的款式变化主要在细节上,从宽松型转变为修身型,从单一型向多元型转变,色彩纹样也日趋丰富;③纺织技术的发展、审美思想观念多元化以及中外文化的交流都是直接影响服饰变迁的必然因素,对未来中国男装行业的发展有着一定的借鉴意义。
The convening of the Third Plenary Session of the 11th CPC Central Committee on December 18,1978 was a turning point in history and established our principles and policies of reform and opening up.After the reform and opening up,the political environment has gradually relaxed,the economy and culture have developed continuously,and significant changes have taken place in people's lifestyle,interests and aesthetic concepts.Clothing,as a symbol of human culture,is a mirror of the historical development of the times,The evolution of the shape of Chinese men's suits from 1978 to 2021 after the reform and opening up can be roughly divided into three periods:the 1980s was the energy storage period of reform and opening up.The country was open to the outside world,and a large number of colorful foreign clothes suddenly poured in,which caused Chinese people to rethink about their way of wearing,and everyone began to pay attention to their own clothes,The changes of men's clothes are relatively small,and the styles are few.Among them,the"suit fever"can be said to be very representative,which reached a climax in this period.However,people have no awareness of the way they wear suits,but just wear them as they like;The 1990s was the starting point of reform and opening up.The rapid development of economy and the improvement of aesthetic ability changed the previous following fashion blindly,and more focused on the pursuit of personalized clothes to highlight per⁃sonal characteristics.Men also began to realize the importance of different suits on different occasions,and pay more attention to the matching methods;The 21st century is the initial harvest of the achievements of reform and opening up.The garment indus⁃try has formed a large-scale industrial chain,paying more attention to the integration of local culture and international culture in design.The development of many personality and diversity of garment forms has promoted China's garment industry to the world stage.Then through the analysis of the changing characteristics of suit fabrics,styles,colors and patterns,as well as the systemat⁃ic and in-depth analysis of the factors leading to their changes,this paper explores the reasons for the rise of men's wear from the root,so as to make people more clearly understand the development process of Chinese men's suit.This paper uses the literature research method to sort out,screen and analyze the relevant literature on the changes of men's clothing in China since the reform and opening up,and deeply excavate the deficiencies in the research,so as to further put forward their own new views and carry out corresponding research;Through the comprehensive analysis of the representative men's suit related cases through the picture analysis method,this paper summarizes the characteristics of men's suits in various times,and concludes that the shape of Chinese men's suits is gradually developing towards personalization and trend.The re⁃search shows that with the development of the times,the types of suit fabrics are becoming more and more diversified.From tra⁃ditional woven fabrics to today's knitted fabrics,we pay more attention to the combination of fabric fashion and environmental protection in the process of innovation;The style changes of suits are mainly reflected in the details,from loose type to slim type,from single type to multiple type,and the colors and patterns are becoming richer and richer;The development of textile technol⁃ogy,the diversification of aesthetic ideas and the exchange of Chinese and foreign cultures are the inevitable factors that directly affect the change of clothing.The author believes that there are many theoretical studies on the changes of Chinese clothing in a certain period since the reform and opening up and the clothing culture in the whole stage,which provide a lot of theoretical ba⁃sis for this paper.However,there is a lack of research on the special discussion of the changes of men's suits,which shows the characteristics of fragmentation and dispersion as a whole and lacks a certain systematization,It is also necessary to deepen its depth and breadth.It is expected that through the induction,summary and research of the changes of men's suits,it will have a certain reference significance for the development of China's men's wear industry in the future.
作者
蒋萌
刘勇
李斌
JIANG Meng;LIU Yong;LI Bin(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China;Wuhan Textile and Apparel Digital Engineering Technology Research Center,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China)
出处
《服饰导刊》
2022年第2期30-37,共8页
Fashion Guide
基金
国家社科基金艺术学项目(2020BG03720)。
关键词
改革开放
男式西服
款式
纹样
嬗变
Reform and opening up
men's suits
fabric
style
patterns
change
