From measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likehood method.The inv...From measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likehood method.The investigations reveal that the angular spreading of the wave energy is consistent with cos2s(θ/2) proposed by Longuet-Higgins et al. (1963, Ocean Wad Spectra,11~136), if the bimodal distributions of wave energy are not taken into account. Bimodality occurring on higher frequency than peak frequency is too rare to affect our whole results. Surprisingly, a much broader directional spreading than that of the field, which is interpreted by the strongly nonlinear energy transfer because of the very young waves in laboratory, is found. The parameter s depends on frequency in the same way as observed by Mitsuyasu et al. (1975, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5, 750~760)and Hasselmann et al. (1980, Journal of physical Oceanography, 10, 1264~1280) in the field, and the relationship between the four nondimensional parameters sm, fo, b1 and b2, determining the directional width, and (corresponding to the inverse of wave age) are given respectively. The observed distributions are found to agree well with the suggestion of Donelan et al. (1985, Philosophical Transaction of Royal Society of London, A315, 509~562) when applied to field waves.展开更多
This paper analyses and compares the property of the Modified Bayesian Directional spectrum analysis Method （MBDM） and the Modified Maximum Lkelihood Method （MMLM） that can he used to estimate directional spectrum...This paper analyses and compares the property of the Modified Bayesian Directional spectrum analysis Method （MBDM） and the Modified Maximum Lkelihood Method （MMLM） that can he used to estimate directional spectrum and reflected coefficient of phase-locked wave field overlapped by multi directional irregular incident and reflected waves. The numerical test verifies the results under different wave conditions, different measurement systems, and different reflection features. The computation speed and stability of the two methods is also compared. The analysis addresses that the MBDM is better than the MMLM for directional spectrum estimating, while the MMLM is better than the MBDM for reflected coefficient estimation and calculating speed and stability.展开更多
From measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of swell in deep water are systematically investigated with maximum likelihood method. It is shown that the ...From measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of swell in deep water are systematically investigated with maximum likelihood method. It is shown that the directional spreading of swell, qualitatively similar to that of developing wind wave which is narrowest in the region of Peak frequency and bxoadens with increasing or decreasing frequency, can be effectively described by cos2s(θ/2) introduced by Longuet-Higgins et al. (1963,Ocean Wave Spectra, 111~136). It is intriguing that bimodal distribution found in our experiments appers at the forward face instead of the rear face of a frequency spectrum in the cases of nonlinearity being very weak. Parameterized by nonlinearity, formulations which can be applied to swell as well as wind wave are proposed. It is concluded that nonlinear interaction plays a central role in controlling the development of directional angular spreading even for the swell.展开更多
According to the wind-wave individual case directional spectra obtained from the instrument array and'956' wave buoy measures, the wind-wave directional spectra presented by Mitsuyasu, Donelan and Hasselmann o...According to the wind-wave individual case directional spectra obtained from the instrument array and'956' wave buoy measures, the wind-wave directional spectra presented by Mitsuyasu, Donelan and Hasselmann onthe basis of the observations as well as theoretical wind-wave directional spectra by Wen Shengchang on the basis ofanalytic method are compared and checked from the pointview of total energy. Results show that Mitsuyasu's directional spectra are well identical with the measured wind-wave directional spectra developing fully in the Bohai Sea.Donelan's and theoretical wind-wave directional spectra are also quite consistent with the measured results in the development of the wind waves, especially best with the measured results in the initial stage of the development of thewind waves.展开更多
文摘From measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likehood method.The investigations reveal that the angular spreading of the wave energy is consistent with cos2s(θ/2) proposed by Longuet-Higgins et al. (1963, Ocean Wad Spectra,11~136), if the bimodal distributions of wave energy are not taken into account. Bimodality occurring on higher frequency than peak frequency is too rare to affect our whole results. Surprisingly, a much broader directional spreading than that of the field, which is interpreted by the strongly nonlinear energy transfer because of the very young waves in laboratory, is found. The parameter s depends on frequency in the same way as observed by Mitsuyasu et al. (1975, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5, 750~760)and Hasselmann et al. (1980, Journal of physical Oceanography, 10, 1264~1280) in the field, and the relationship between the four nondimensional parameters sm, fo, b1 and b2, determining the directional width, and (corresponding to the inverse of wave age) are given respectively. The observed distributions are found to agree well with the suggestion of Donelan et al. (1985, Philosophical Transaction of Royal Society of London, A315, 509~562) when applied to field waves.
文摘This paper analyses and compares the property of the Modified Bayesian Directional spectrum analysis Method （MBDM） and the Modified Maximum Lkelihood Method （MMLM） that can he used to estimate directional spectrum and reflected coefficient of phase-locked wave field overlapped by multi directional irregular incident and reflected waves. The numerical test verifies the results under different wave conditions, different measurement systems, and different reflection features. The computation speed and stability of the two methods is also compared. The analysis addresses that the MBDM is better than the MMLM for directional spectrum estimating, while the MMLM is better than the MBDM for reflected coefficient estimation and calculating speed and stability.
文摘From measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of swell in deep water are systematically investigated with maximum likelihood method. It is shown that the directional spreading of swell, qualitatively similar to that of developing wind wave which is narrowest in the region of Peak frequency and bxoadens with increasing or decreasing frequency, can be effectively described by cos2s(θ/2) introduced by Longuet-Higgins et al. (1963,Ocean Wave Spectra, 111~136). It is intriguing that bimodal distribution found in our experiments appers at the forward face instead of the rear face of a frequency spectrum in the cases of nonlinearity being very weak. Parameterized by nonlinearity, formulations which can be applied to swell as well as wind wave are proposed. It is concluded that nonlinear interaction plays a central role in controlling the development of directional angular spreading even for the swell.
文摘According to the wind-wave individual case directional spectra obtained from the instrument array and'956' wave buoy measures, the wind-wave directional spectra presented by Mitsuyasu, Donelan and Hasselmann onthe basis of the observations as well as theoretical wind-wave directional spectra by Wen Shengchang on the basis ofanalytic method are compared and checked from the pointview of total energy. Results show that Mitsuyasu's directional spectra are well identical with the measured wind-wave directional spectra developing fully in the Bohai Sea.Donelan's and theoretical wind-wave directional spectra are also quite consistent with the measured results in the development of the wind waves, especially best with the measured results in the initial stage of the development of thewind waves.
